Super late in the game, but here is that tutorial I promised from so long ago! Feel free to ask questions!
So the term in general means “Applied” which is exactly what youre doing! In textiles and sewing, you’re applying a patch of decorative fabric to your garment! However it generally involves an EMBROIDERY machine or a lot of time to hand satin stitch your applique.
But in this…
How to cover your eyebrows makeup tutorial ~ https://www.facebook.com/iriascosplay
Hi Hhhhammy and Gothichamlet! I just started sewing, and am attempting Rumminov’s fancystuck Jade design (with some changes, of course) and wondering if you could help me with some minor pattern changes. I’m working with Simplicity Costume Pattern 2827 design C. I bought sizes 6-12, but the bodice seems a little snug on 12. I was hoping you had some tips on adding fabric for larger arm-holes and more fabric around the upper chest. Thank you!!
Slash and Spread is a great technique to use any time you need to selectively increase/decrease the volume in a commercial pattern! Traditionally it’s used for adding gathers and changing the silhouette, but it can also be used to tailor standard patterns to better fit your body. As always, be sure to experiment with muslin first before cutting into your nice fabric, in order to determine how deep and wide to spread your new pattern piece.
ETA: Updated a lot of the images to reflect a full bust adjustment!
How To Turn Craft Foam Into Leather
(Or not really but close enough. Also a side order of armour.)
I picked up this technique from this tutorial years ago, then adapted it further. You can use it to imitate leather, and with a few changes also to make thin armour parts, such as Vincent Valentine’s gauntlet as in the last picture. It won’t really work for thicker armour; there are plenty of tutorials on how to make EVA foam armour to be found online.
Back to fakey leather; you need the standard 2mm craft foam/fun foam/EVA foam/foam of many names, white glue, a brush, shoe polish, mod podge/podgy glue and a sponge.
You want to have most of the shaping and decorating done before you start. For example, for Athos’ pauldron I had already glued the three layers of the main piece and the fleur de lis shield together (UHU glue works well, all purpose glue is also okay), but had left the two upper strips and the straps separate to be attached after everything was done.
It is also easiest to do any embossing when the pieces are still flat. Foam won’t take an awful lot of detail, but with some patience the results can work quite well. You can use paper embossing tools for this, but make sure that the point isn’t too sharp or it will tear the foam. The back of a knife also works. My favourite tool for it so far is actually a letter opener. Drag across the foam for the first shallow line (it will spring back a bit) and repeat as many times as necessary without cutting the foam.
One layer of craft foam isn’t very strong by itself, so you either want to have at least two layers glued together or a single layer backed with fabric. If the final result includes stitching, definitely attach fabric or the thread may pull right through the foam. Cover the back of the foam piece with white glue, then smooth fabric onto it. Use cotton or linen (not synthetics), so that the glue can come through the fabric. When it is dry, cut the fabric along the edges of the foam, then brush another layer of white glue on the fabric. This makes sure that the fabric is firmly stuck and that the edges won’t fray.
(If you want to imitate metal armour, dilute the white glue a bit with water for the first couple of layers covering the whole piece; the fabric backing as well as the front and sides of the foam. This allows the glue to saturate the foam. Follow that with a few layers of undiluted glue, letting it dry in between layers until it’s stiff enough. The end result can be spray painted.)
Most importantly, when you glue layers of foam or foam and fabric together make sure that it dries in the shape it’s supposed to be. For Athos’ pauldron I wrapped a towel around a bottle to have something roughly the shape of my upper arm and then tied the pauldron around it while the glue between the layers was drying. Once it is dry, it will hold its shape. You do not need to heat the foam to do this! Heating it is inadvisable since foam is somewhat toxic. Foam is also a little stretchy, so you can carefully stretch it for an extra curve. Glueing fabric to it will help it hold its shape.
This is the point where I added battle damage to Athos’ pauldron by cutting grooves out of the top layer of foam with a stanley knife. The knife needs to be very sharp to prevent ragged edges, so use a new blade.
Now for actually making it look like leather! Rub several layers of shoe polish onto the foam, letting it dry between layers. The resulting colour depends on the colour of the foam and the polish. Use black foam and brown polish for dark brown ‘leather’, white or grey foam for lighter shades and so on (the Gondorian vambrace in the picture before last was made using white foam for the top layer and black foam for the bottom layer).
Then use a sponge to brush a layer of mod podge onto it. Mod podge is a glue varnish used for decoupage and is water resistant when it is dry. Two or three layers will do, and for a smooth finish dilute the mod podge with a little water for the last layer. Leave it to dry thoroughly. It will remain a little tacky, which can be solved by smoothing a little talcum powder onto the surface carefully. This also removes a bit of the shine, for a slightly more worn look.
Finally, assemble the piece, sew the bits that have to be sewn, paint decoration etc. As a general tip, if you want to make an object that looks like leather, treat it like leather! Add stitching, add metal grommets and so on. That goes a long way in making it look convincing.
Today I had a lot of people asking me how I made my lightweight giant cosplay sword. It was taller than me, but light enough to be held aloft in dramatic poses with one tiny-lady-hand.
Here is my progress; it was my first time making a cosplay sword, so I winged it using experience from making other props and art.
Give it a try if you think it might work for you. :)
If you liked this tutorial, please check out my Facebook page for more of my work!
You can also adjust this tutorial to work with invisible zippers or to make the zipper more or less noticeable by adjusting the garment edge during the pinning phase to completely enclose the zipper or to show more of the zipper.
Larger Size available on my DeviantArt.
how to make this
look like THIS
While there are many different techniques for painting foam cosplay pieces, this is the method I use for metal armor that works really well for me. So I have typed out exactly what I do in hopes that it will maybe help someone.
I specifically used this technique for foam Iron Man armor, but it can be used for most metal props.
warning: very pic and text heavy
- Jay Justice, on whether costumers who dress for charity events should only portray characters ‘accurately’ or not, with implications that ‘accuracy’ means that a non white person should limit themselves to canonical characters of color. (via msjayjustice)
Cellophane god tier wing
with full DISSECTION OF THE PROCESS
Steel wire (pls use steel; trust me)
two rolls cellophane
large cardboard or trashable flat surface
big books or heavy weights
glitter (optional and messy)
1) make wing form, I just draw it out, i made several cause I’m a sketchy drafter, I outlined the final form.
2) mold wire to form, a lil hard you have to be willing to wrestle with it, i also cheated and used my second form that i molded more after the finished first wing then the form so it doesn’t fit perfectly. i would recommend doing this, to keep the wings symmetrical to each other
3)get the cellophane under the form and cut around, with about an 1/2 inch to full inch leave-way. around curves, make slits to help it shape around it
4)spray with adhesive while following the path of the wire, its a good idea to leave spay on both sides for easy sticking. fold over the lip and press down to secure it in place tightly. MAKE SURE THE CELLOPHANE IS TAUGHT WHEN DOING THIS, IT LOOKS 100% NICER IF ITS TIGHT
5)finished wings, look at those things so nice.
6) make another mold for the inner part. A COMMON MISCONCEPTION ABOUT GTIER WINGS IS ABOUT COLOR VS. TRANSPARENCY. THE MIDDLE PART IS LESS OPAQUE, NOT LIGHTER IN COLOR. cut along the guidelines.
an optional part is spray over it once lightly with adhesive, and gently blow glitter over the shape. spray again and press into place on wing form.
then ya done. congration.
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LadyLoki Collar - Tutorial/process diary
Finished collar: http://anachronisminaction.tumblr.com/post/89984844404/decorative-armor-collar-made-for-my-lady-loki
Whole Costume: http://anachronisminaction.tumblr.com/post/91103284009/lady-loki-costume-for-the-labyrinth-of-jareth
1- I started by cutting out a pattern in craft foam and trying it on to get a rough shape to start with. I used one of my halter tops as a the starting point: https://www.facebook.com/Anachronism.In.Action/photos/a.269392913112439.80726.269295446455519/590989730952754/?type=3&theater I then cut the pieces out in worbla, and attached the shoulders and collar together.
2- Recruiting the help of a friend, we began to shape the collar to my torso. Going section by section, I would hold the collar and heat it up, wait a second for it to cool then put it on. My friend would then help me hold it in place until it cooled and hardened again. I wore a t-shirt over my corset to protect both my skin and the garment.
3- (not shown) Once we had it shaped, my friend marked out the edge of the corset on the worbla, and I cut it down to 1” bellow that line. I also cut and attached the shoulder Flanges.
4- I began to design and draw on the snake skin pattern. I found the basic design by googling “snake skin stencil” then blowing up the image. I used tracing paper and a soft pencil to transfer the design. Once I had everything laid out nicely, I went over it in pen just in case the pencil rubbed off.
5- I used an engraving tool ( This exact one:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Wood-Burning-Crafting-Tool-5-in-1-Leather-crafts-Cutting-Fushing-Darice-/141320784036?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e76008a4) with the knife tip to cut/burn out the snakeskin. There will be smoke, so either do this part outside or wear a respirator (or both!) and make sure your canisters are for fumes, not particles like a dust mask etc. Save those for sanding.
6- Added little strips for some more detail, making the different sections look more intentional. I also at this point, used a hole pun to make the lacing holes at the center back.
7- I tried the collar on with the corset to make sure everything was fitting, and made little tweaks to various parts to make then a little better.
8- I applied 3 layers of Gesso (Sanding in-between) before I ran out and used some spray primer. This ended up being a mixed blessing as there was something wrong with the can and after a little use it started spewing powered paint. I ended up having to do extra sanding to get it off, but decided to leave it on the snakeskin part of the collar because I thought it added a nice textural contrast.
9- I painted the collar using the same method as the other parts of my look costume. I started with two coats of metallic acrylic paint (jacquard lumiere) followed by a layer of rub’n’buff. I used dry brushing, and watered down acrylic in black to add some shadows. The final step was a few coats of satin finish sealer (one of modpodge, two of clear kryolan spraypaint)
10- To finish the collar, I lined the neck, shoulder, and edges in moleskin for comport. I also painted a satin ribbon antique gold with some fabric paint to lace the back closed; because it seemed easier than going to the store again :)
I hope you enjoyed seeing my process for making the collar. If you try anything similar, be sure to send me pictures!